Lake Titicaca, Peru

The next morning we were off to Lake Titicaca. Since the lake is at 12,500 feet above sea level we were apprehensive as to how well we would acclimate to the altitude. We enjoyed the beautiful mountain scenery as we gradually climbed higher and figher. We were driving through passes between 20,000 foot peaks dotted with permanent galciers. There were several stops along the way where we could stretch our legs and visit some local vendors. One particular stop had some alpaca and vicuna grazing on a grassy area in the center of their kiosks. This was the closest we got to a vicuna whose wool is so soft it makes cashmere feel like sandpaper. A young girl in traditional dress tended to the animals allowing visitors to pose and take photos with them.

In stark contrast to the green mountains and sparkling glaciers we had to traverse the dusty town of Juliaca. Not all the streets are paved and a huge street market was just closing up shop for the day was we passed through the town. It appeared very chaotic with people milling about everywhich way. We were surprised by the extraordinary number of bicycle taxis that were everythwere waiting to take shoppers and their packages home.

Soon we were across town and up on our final rise were we got our first glimpse of Puno and the blue waters of Lake Titicaca.

The Posada del Inca Hotel is situated right the water's edge providing totally unobstructed views of the lake. We found it odd that even though it is a two story building, it is at 12,000 feet and has no elevator! The staff who live at this altitude manages the baggage just fine but as low landers we found that bounding up the stairs could take our breath away.

Situated just outside the hotel on the lake is a miniature replica of a floating island and docked at the end of a pier sits the Steamship Yavari that was brought from England to patrol the lake in the 1800s. But more about about the Yavari later. For now we shall explore the lake.

In addition to making their islands out of totora, the Uru also make their homes out of totora. Totora reeds are woven into mats and bound into rolls and covered with blankets to create benches. The ladies in the photo below are cooking on a stove fueled by totora. The seated lady is feeding dried totora into the fire box with her right hand and putting out any flames that crawl too far out of the stove with additional totora in her left hand. If you look closely you will note that the cook is stirring with a totora reed.

Not only is Totora a fuel and a building material but we are also eating this versatile reed. After striping away its hard cover, we munched on its tender core. It tastes much like young celery.

After a brief introduction to Uru life we boarded a boat made of totora and sailed to some other islands. Dried reeds are rolled and bound to create a waterproof hull and soft new reeds are placed inside creating a cushioned seating area. The pilot propels the boat much like a gondolier with a single oar from the back of the boat. We enjoyed the peaceful ride across the quiet waters where we occasionally passed locals fishing from smaller boats.

After visiting the floating islands Linda and I opted to stay in town where we browsed the local shops and had a lunched on alpaca and cuy. Later our driver picked us up and took us to Sillustani to see the pre-Incan burial towers called chullpas. There are several burial towers around Lake Umayo. The styles vary with the passage of time and the importance of the person buried in the tomb. The site is also dotted with "energizing" places where the ancient revitalized themselves by tapping into the natural energy of the Earth. Since we were hiking around this site at nearly 13,000 feet up, Linda and I took the opportunity to avail ourselves of the energy at every opportunity.

The entrance into these tombs is low crawl space at the bottom of the tower. Several people opted to crawl inside to experience the energy of the chullpas. I opted to stay outside enjoying the energy of the sunshine. I am not sure about the sifnificance of the bas relief lizard on the wall of the largest tower, but it made for some interesting speculation.

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We were still energized when we left Sillustani and since we were a small group of six people we opted the offer to visit a family farm on the way back to our hotel. A distinct characteristic of the local homes is the presence of two tiny bulls on the rooftops or entry ways into the home. They are more or less symbols of good luck for a happy home, a secure home, a prosperous home. The farm we visited was no exception and had the two bulls poised above the arched entry onto the property.

We were immediately greeted by an alpaca mom and her three week old baby. In contrast to the "cute" alpaca we noticed a jar full of dead snakes on a window sill. It stopped us in our tracks and we were informed it is used as a homemade medicine (topical application I hope). The farmer invited us into his home which was a series of single room adobe buildings connected by courtyards where flowers, herbs and vegetables were planted. Since this is a very dry climate most activities take place outdoors including cooking. Note that the farmer's wife is cooking on a stove in her outdoor kitchen. She also has a baby strapped on her back and occasionally had to brush away the chickens with a nudging kick.

We were treated to fresh fried bread, homemade cheese and boiled new potatoes that we dipped in green mud. After all the precautions about drinking only bottled water with the seal intact we were sampling local water mixed with green dirt found in the farmer's field. Ironic, but none of us could resist tasting the exotic sauce. It was kind of bland but not bad.

Our final morning we decided to explore the steamship Yavari that was docked just outside our hotel. It is being restored and re-outfitted to ferry tourists around the lake. The story of how the Yavari was built in England and transported inpieces to Peru where it was carried to Peru's interior and up 12,000 feet to the shore of Titicaca where it was reassembled is fascinating. Once in Peru the engine had to be converted from running on coal to running on Llama dung! Read more of the history here: Yavari.

The photos below are the Bridge, Officer's quarters, original engine, Wheel House and the anchor hoist. Free tours of the ship are provided by a docent when you board the ship. Donations for its continued restoration are accepted.

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