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~ Desoto Joe's Civil War Newsletter ~


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Civil War Heritage

Did You Know How


The Name Dixie Evolved

In New Orleans before the Civil War, a bank note valued at ten dollars was called a Dix, French for ten. Riverboat men would refer to these ten dollar notes as dixies and when asked as they journeyed South, where they were headed, they would respond that they were heading downriver to pick up some dixies. Etymologists believe this story is the origin of the word Dixie, as well as the title of the South, Dixie Land.

Desoto Joe/The Record Man

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~ Desoto Joe's Civil War Newsletter ~


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Civil War Heritage

Confederate and Federal Uniforms


Civil War Uniforms - Part One

In the beginning of the war and sometimes throughout the conflict, units uniforms varied, especially CSA soldiers. The Confederate soldier, in many cases, wore whatever he could get. The Partisan Rangers in Missouri were better outfitted than most regular Confederates. You hear of the Blue and the Grey, but it was not that cut and dry. In fact, at Wilson's Creek, the mistaking of enemy uniforms for friendly troops, cost many a man his life.

By 1864, the Federal Army had the uniform code down pretty well and standardized (but there was often variations in the field, according to the individual commander)

The Federal officers coats.

For Commissioned Officers:

All officers wore a frock-coat of dark blue cloth, the skirt extended from two-thirds to three-fourths of the distance from the top of the hip to the bend of the knee; single-breasted for Captains and Lieutenants; double-breasted for all other grades.

  • (Major General) two rows of buttons on the breast, nine in each row, placed by threes; the distance between each row was five and one half inches at the top and three and one half inches at the bottom. They had a stand up collar, that rose no higher than permitted the chin to turn freely over it. It hooked in front at the bottom and sloped up and backward at an angle of thirty degrees on each side. The cuffs were two and one half inches deep, to go around the sleeves parallel with the lower edge and to button with three small buttons at the under seam. Pockets were in the folds of the skirt, with one button at the hip and one at the end of each pocket, making four buttons on the back and skirt of the coat. The hip button ranged with the lowest buttons on the breast. The collar and cuffs were of dark blue velvet and the lining of the coat was black.
  • (Brigadier General) The same as a Major General, except there was only eight buttons in each row on the breast, placed in pairs.
  • (Colonel) The same as a Major General, except there was only seven buttons in each row on the breast, placed at equal distances. Collar and cuffs were of the same color and material as the coat.
  • (Lieutenant Colonel) Same as a Colonel.
  • (Major) Same as a Colonel.
  • (Captain) Same as a Colonel, except there was only one row of nine buttons on the breast, placed at equal distances.
  • (First Lieutenant) Same as a Captain.
  • (Second Lieutenant) Same as a Captain.
  • (Brevet Second Lieutenant) Same as a Captain.
  • (Medical Cadet) Same as a Brevet Second Lieutenant.

Officers of the Light Artillery on undress duty, could wear a round jacket, according to pattern of dark blue cloth, trimmed with scarlet with the Russian shoulder knot. The prescribed insignia of rank was worked in silver in the center of the knot.

Desoto Joe/The Record Man

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~ Desoto Joe's Civil War Newsletter ~


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Civil War Heritage

Confederate and Federal Uniforms


Civil War Uniforms - Part Two

Federal enlisted men

These were the "standards" but again, individual commanders and isolated units in the field, wore different uniforms sometimes. It was hard for Washington to enforce dress codes on fighting units, say, in the hills of the Ozarks. One could be charged with improper uniform dress if they did not follow the outlined code. Usually when an Officer was "upset" with a particular individual who made the infraction.

The uniform coat of enlisted "foot" soldiers (Infantry) was a single-breasted frock, of dark blue cloth, made without plaits, with a skirt extending one half the distance from the top of the hip to the bend of the knee. One row of nine buttons on the breast, placed at equal distances. A stand up collar that rose no higher than permitted the chin to move freely over it. It hooked in the front at the bottom and then sloped upward and backward at a thirty degree angle. The cuffs pointed according to pattern and buttoned with two small buttons at the under seam. Collar and cuffs were edged with a cord or welt of cloth as follows:

  • Scarlet for Artillery
  • Sky blue for Infantry
  • Yellow for Engineers
  • Crimson for Ordinance and Hospital Stewards
  • On each shoulder was a metallic scale according to pattern, a narrow lining for the skirt of the coat, of the same color and material as the coat. Pockets in the fold of the skirt, with one button at each hip to range with the lowest buttons on the breast. No buttons at the end of the pockets.

    Enlisted men of the Cavalry and Light Artillery (Federal)

    Their uniform jacket was dark blue cloth, with one row of twelve small buttons on the breast, placed at equal distances. A stand up collar that rose no higher than permitted the chin to move freely over it. It hooked in the front at the bottom and sloped the same as the coat collar. On the collar, on each side, was two blind button holes of lace, three eighths of an inch wide and a strip of the same that extended down the front and around the whole lower edge of the jacket. The back seam was laced with the same and on the cuff, a point of the same shape as that on the coat, but formed of the lace. The jacket extended to the waist and was lined with white flannel. Two small buttons were located on the under seam of the cuff, as on the coat cuff. One hook and eye at the bottom of the collar. The color of lace (worsted) was yellow for Cavalry and scarlet for Light Artillery.

    All Musicians (Federal)

    The same as other enlisted men of their respected corps, with the addition of a facing of lace, three eighths of an inch wide, on the front of the jacket or coat. Made in the following manner:

    Bars of three eighths of an inch worsted lace placed on a line with each button, six and one half inches wide at the bottom and then gradually expanding upwards to the last button. Counting from the waist up and contracting there to the bottom of the collar, where it was six and one half inches wide, with a strip of the same lace following the bars at their outer extremity. The whole, presented something that was called the Herring-bone form. The color of the lace facing corresponded with the trimming of the corps.

    For Fatigue purposes (Doing manual labor, such as trenching etc. Federal)

    A sack coat of dark blue flannel, extending half way down the thigh, and made loose, without sleeve or body lining, falling collar and an inside pocket on the left side, with four coat buttons down the front.

    (I'm sure that many of these coats were taken off early, when doing labor, because I know I would have shed mine, if I was digging a trench)

    For Recruits (Federal)

    The sack coat was made with sleeve and body lining. The body lining was made of flannel.

    When the men were on duty, (except on fatigue duty or out of quarters) the coat or jacket had to be buttoned and hooked at the collar.

    Trowsers (Federal)

    For General Officers & Officers of the Ordnance Department: They were of dark blue cloth, plain, without stripe, welt or cord, down the outer seam.

    For Officers of the General Staff & Staff Corps: (Except the Ordnance) Dark blue cloth, with a gold cord, one eighth of an inch in diameter, along the outer seam.

    For all Regimental Officers: Dark blue cloth, with a welt let into the outer seam, one eighth of an inch in diameter, of colors corresponding to the facings of the respective regiments. (Cavalry-yellow, Artillery-scarlet, Infantry-sky blue)

    For Medical Cadets: Same as for Officers of the General Staff, except a welt of buff cloth, instead of a gold cord.

    For Enlisted men: (Except companies of Light Artillery) Dark blue cloth. Sergeants: With a stripe one & one half inch wide. Corporals: With a stripe one half inch wide, of worsted lace, down & over the outer seam, of the color of the facings of the respective corps.

    Ordnance Sergeants & Hospital Stewards: Stripe of crimson lace, one & one half inch wide.

    Privates: Plain, without stripe or welt.

    For Companies of Artillery equipped as Light Artillery: Sky blue cloth.

    All trowsers were made to be loose, without plaits & spread well over the boot. The trowsers were to be re-enforced for all enlisted mounted men.

    Desoto Joe/The Record Man

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    ~ Desoto Joe's Civil War Newsletter ~


    usa0a.gif  Ordinary Facts and Information  usa0a.gif



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    Civil War Heritage

    Confederate and Federal Uniforms


    Civil War Uniforms - Part Three

    Federal standards for buttons used on uniforms:

    For General Officers & Officers of the General Staff: Gilt, convex, with spread eagle & stars, & plain border. Large size, seven eighths of an inch in exterior diameter. Small size, one half inch.

    For Officers of the Corps of Engineers: gilt, nine tenths of an inch in exterior diameter, slightly convex. A raised bright rim, one thirtieth of an inch wide. Device, an eagle holding in his beak a scroll, with the word "Essayons" a bastion with embrasures in the distance surrounded by water, with a rising sun. The figures to be of dead gold upon a bright field. Small buttons of the same form & device & fifty five hundredths of an inch in exterior diameter.

    For Officers of the Corps of Topographical Engineers: Gilt, seven eighths of an inch exterior diameter, convex & solid. Device, the shield of the United States, occupying one half the diameter & the letters T. E., in old English characters, the other half. Small buttons, one half inch diameter, device & form the same.

    For Officers of the Ordnance Department: Gilt, convex, plain border, cross cannon & bombshell, with a circular scroll over & across the cannon, containing the words "Ordnance Corps". Large size, seven eighths of an inch in exterior diameter. Small size, one half inch.

    For Officers of Artillery, Infantry & Cavalry: Gilt, convex, device, a spread eagle, with the letter A, for Artillery - I for Infantry - C for Cavalry, on the shield. Large size, seven eighths of an inch exterior diameter. Small size, one half inch.

    Aides-De-Camp: May wear the button of the General Staff, or of their regiment or corps, at their option. For Medical Cadets: Same as for Officers of the General Staff.

    For all Enlisted men: Yellow, the same as is used by the Artillery, etc., omitting the letter in the shield.

    Desoto Joe/The Record Man

    Back To:  MacLinks' Civil War Research Center

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    ~ Desoto Joe's Civil War Newsletter ~


    usa0a.gif  Ordinary Facts and Information  usa0a.gif



    ************** // ** \\ ************** // ** \\ **************

    Civil War Heritage

    Confederate and Federal Uniforms


    Civil War Uniforms - Part Four

    Federal standards for hats:

    Hats: type and made from: (Federal)

    For Officers: Made with the best black felt. The dimensions of medium size as follows:
    • Width of brim, 3 1/4 inches
    • Height of crown, 6 1/4 inches
    • Oval of tip, 1/2 inch
    • Taper of crown, 3/4 inch
    • Curve of head, 3/8 inch

    For Enlisted men: Made of black felt, same shape & size as for Officers, with double row of stiching, instead of binding, around the edge. To agree in quality with the pattern deposited in the clothing arsenal.

    For Medical Cadets:They wore a forage cap according to pattern.

    Hats: trimmings (Federal)

    For General Officers: Gold cord, with acorn shaped ends. The brim of the hat looped up on the right side, & fastened with an Eagle attached to the side of the hat. There were three black Ostrich feathers on the left side, a gold embroidered wreath in front, on a black velvet ground, encircling the letters U. S., in silver, old English characters.

    For Officers of the Adjutant-General's, Inspector General's, Quartermaster's, Subsistence, Medical & Pay Departments, & the Judge Advocate, above the rank of Captain: The same as General Officers, except the cord, which was black silk & gold.

    For the same Departments, below the rank of Field Officers: The same as for Field Officers, except there was only two feathers.

    For Officers of the Corps of Engineers: The same as for the General staff, except the ornament in front, which was a gold embroidered wreath of laurel & palm, encircling a silver turreted castle, on black velvet ground.

    For Officers of the Topographical Engineers: The same as for the General staff, except the ornament in front, which was a gold embroidered wreath of oak leaves, encircling a gold embroidered shield, on black velvet ground.

    For Officers of the Ordnance Department: The same as for the General staff, except the ornament in front, which was a gold embroidered shell & flame, on black velvet ground.

    For Officers of Cavalry: The same as for the General staff, except the ornament in front, which was two gold embroidered sabers crossed, edges upward, on black velvet ground, with the number of the regiment, in silver, in the upper angle.

    For Officers of Artillery: The same as for the General staff, except the ornament in front, which was a gold embroidered cross cannon, on black velvet ground, with the number of the regiment in silver at the intersection of the cross cannon.

    For Officers of Infantry: The same as Artillery, except the ornament in front, which was a gold embroidered bugle, on black velvet ground, with the number of the regiment in silver within the bend.

    For Enlisted men: Except companies of Light Artillery. The same as Officers of the respected corps, except that there was one feather. The cord was worsted, of the same color as that of the facing of the corps. 3/16 of an inch in diameter, running three times through a slide of the same material, & terminated with two tassels, not less than two inches long, on the side of the hat opposite the feather. The insignia of the corps, in brass, in front of the hat, corresponding with those prescribed for Officers, with the number of regiment, 5/8 of an inch long, in brass & the letter of the company, one inch, in brass, arranged over the insignia.

    For Hospital Stewards: The cord was of buff & green mixed. The wreath in front of brass, with the letters U. S. in Roman, of white metal. The brim was looped up to the side of the hat with a brass Eagle & had a hook attached to the bottom, to secure the brim. (On the right side for mounted men, the left for foot men) The feather was worn on the opposite side of the loop.

    All the trimming on the hats were made so they could be detached. But the Eagle, badge of corps & letter of company, were always worn. For companies of Artillery, equipped as Light Artillery, the old pattern uniform cap, with the horsehair plume, cord & tassel were worn.

    The Officers of the General staff & Staff Corps, could at their option, wear a light French chapeau, either stiff crown or flat, according to the pattern deposited in the Adjutant General's office. Officers below the rank of Field Officers wore only two feathers.

    Forage Caps (Federal)

    These were worn for fatigue purposes (And used a lot, since the life of a soldier then involved much of fatigue duty) The forage caps were of patterns in the Quartermaster General's office; dark blue cloth, with a welt of the same around the crown & yellow metal letters in front, to designate companies.

    Commissioned Officers could wear forage caps of the same pattern with the distinctive ornament of the corps & regiment in front.

    Cravat or Stock (Federal)

    For all Officers: They were black, when a cravat was worn, the tie was not to be visible at the opening of the collar.

    For all Enlisted men: They were black leather, according to pattern.

    Desoto Joe/The Record Man

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